The Other Critics

Tamarkin Addicted to Pasta at The Florentine; Sula Gets Nickel-And Dimed at Gyu-Kaku

The Florentine
The Florentine Photo: Huge Galdones/Galdones Photography

Continuing the string of solid, if not overly enthusiastic reviews for The Florentine, David Tamarkin writes that the pastas have “an addictive quality,” and that they are “unmatched by any other in the city.” Unfortunately the short ribs were “the opposite of exciting,” and the swordfish was “a little dry.” So “everything is not perfect here,” but the “lifeless-at-first-glance menu” also contains a “massive pork chop” with a “caramelized crust that Stein deftly achieves without drying out the meat within.” [TOC]

Though Mike Sula sees the “attraction” of the “lively, hip” Gyu-Kaku, the Korean barbecue chain ultimately sets “an awful standard for Korean food for unsuspecting millions.” The restaurant takes “nickel-and-diming to vexing length,” charging diners for standards accompaniments like lettuce and rice. He ends by exclaiming that the “successful corporate bastardizations of ethnic cuisines—from Taco Bell to Olive Garden—is long and ignoble, and this one is no different.” [Chicago Reader]

Tamarkin Addicted to Pasta at The Florentine; Sula Gets Nickel-And Dimed at