The Other Critics

Sifton, Cuozzo Impressed by Millesime; Levine Still Disappointed by Mile End

Millesime is “a restaurant devoted to the pleasures of the sea that manages to be luxurious and humble, ambitious and rustic, all at once,” says Sam Sifton. “[It’s] an enjoyable place to take down a plateau of raw-bar oysters, lobsters and clams, before jumping into a menu that offers real treats at the starter level, and simple, solid seafood fare to follow.” [NYT]
Related: Millesime Opens in Former Country Space Tonight

Lima Limon is “a full-blown restaurant, distinguishing itself by big picture windows that allow you to survey the interior from the street, and a relentlessly green color scheme that casts a pall over the diners’ faces,” writes Robert Sietsema. “Ceviches are a point of pride, and if you normally hesitate to eat raw fish at a place you’re not entirely familiar with, take my advice and don’t worry here.” [VV]

Millesime “delights palate, eye and even the din-weary ear,” says Steve Cuozzo. “Three [à la plancha fish choices] I tried — cod, black sea bass and tuna steak — were so fresh and moist, they hardly needed sauces on the side. Juicy, roasted chicken lavished in garlic and thyme was worth the 45-minute wait.” [NYP]

Mile End’s “dinner menu is filled with Eastern European soul food staples that, in Israel’s words, have been updated, modernized, and transformed—with a lot of love, reverence, good ingredients, and more than a little technique,” says Ed Levine. “The meat has improved texturally since Mile End’s opening, but every few months we’ve tried it, that same acrid undertone has marred our experience.” [Serious Eats NY]
Related : Mile End Introduces Deliphiles to Pastrami’s Canadian Cousin

The Lambs Club “is the latest entry in the collection of restaurants that includes The Lion (bad), Monkey Bar (so-so) and the Waverly Inn (occasionally quite good), all of them dark, clubby and exclusive-feeling,” writes Ryan Sutton. “The Lambs Club might have as many solid dishes as a two- star restaurant, but the high prices magnify the misses here.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Adam Platt on Peels and the Lambs Club

Sifton, Cuozzo Impressed by Millesime; Levine Still Disappointed by Mile End