The Other Critics

Sens Calls Ippuku ‘Delightful, Artful’

Photo: Laura Flippen/SF Mag

The new issue of San Francisco magazine brings with it Josh Sens’s take on Ippuku, the Berkeley yakitori that has been universally adored by area critics. Sens gives us some new background about chef-owner Christian Geideman, who spent some time in Tokyo and strove to create a true, drunken yakitori. “In his choice of location, a half block from BART, he adheres to the Japanese habit of arraying yakitoris around public-transit stops. You aren’t meant to hop behind the wheel when you leave.”

Sens makes obligatory notes about the chicken tartare, “The only surprise is how familiar it tastes, sweet like tuna but cleaner on the palate: an improved chicken of the sea.” But, he adds, “Far more startling is a dish called shutuo: salted fish intestines doused in sake and honey and served with cream cheese as a foil. The tidal flavors of the fish guts have the nuance of an asteroid impact.” All told, he enjoys himself and gets pretty wasted on shochu, and he gives the place three stars. [SF Mag, Earlier takes from Kauffman, Bauer, Tablehopper]

Sens Calls Ippuku ‘Delightful, Artful’