The Other Critics

Craig LaBan Finds ‘Marinara Soul’ at Village Belle; Trey Popp Gets Feral at JG Domestic

• Despite “inconsistencies” in the the kitchen, and “terrible” crab cakes, Craig LaBan discover’s Village Belle’s “marinara soul” in Lou Campanaro’s “clever riff” on crespelle. [Inquirer]

• Trey Popp says the “feral, backwoods punch” to JG Domestic’s wild boar rib chop makes it an “entrée no carnivore should miss,” but the striped bass, “whose texture was halfway to halibut,” was “most memorable for how much it left to be desired.” [Phillymag]

• Adam Erace savors the “sublime honeycomb tripe under a Parmigiano crust” in the trippa alla Romana at Amis, but thinks the crudo of hiramasa is “surprisingly tame.” [Courier-Post]

• There’s “nothing stale about” The Saloon and the clams Pavarotti are “not-to-be-missed.” [Phillymag]

Craig LaBan Finds ‘Marinara Soul’ at Village Belle; Trey Popp Gets Feral at JG