Spit-roasted rack of pork.
Photo: Brian Smeets/Grub Street
Patti U. files the first formal review of Cotogna, the new casual cousin to Quince that opened less than a month ago, and she calls it “sexy,” “high-end,” “dreamy,” and “wondrous.” She’s especially ecstatic over the spinach sformato, “a fragile, bright green, spinach custard unmolded onto a plate of nutty, salty, velvety fonduta,” the spit-roasted pork over fennel purée, and she loves a pizza she has with anchovy, salt cod, and crumbled egg, calling it “what a nicoise salad might taste like if it were a pizza.” She leaves weak in the knees, and advises arriving early at the already popular little place to snag a seat at the bar. [Examiner, Earlier slideshow]
