The Other Critics

Umami Tries Hard and Sometimes Delivers; Devour ‘Passionately Browned’ Meat at Gauchao Brazilian

• Devra First thinks some of the combos at Brookline Japanese fusion bistro Umami don’t quite work, but she appreciates the effort. And the gooey sweet potato fries are terrific. [Globe]

• Ike DeLorenzo is wowed by food-by-the-pound parlor Gauchao Brazilian Cuisine in East Somerville. The meat is “passionately browned” and pasta is “miraculously firm.” [Globe]

• MC Slim JB thinks you should let loose a little with One Giant Profiterole at Petit Robert Central; duck confit is also worth a (less caloric) try. [Stuff]

• Scott Kearnan appreciates Canary Square’s lighter take on comfort fare. Yeah, except for those deep-fried Twinkies. [Stuff]

• MC Slim JB and Scott Kearnan also round up their favorite dishes of 2010 in the current issue of Stuff. There were surprising picks (butternut squash ravioli at Barlow’s?) and noteworthy ones, like the dibi at Teranga and the croque dog at Mike & Patty’s. [Stuff]

• Robert Nadeau loved the confit-duck-and-smoked-sausage cassoulet at the Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar. [Phoenix]

Boston thinks Chinatown dim-sum-slinger China Pearl is just the Christmastime destination for those anticipating culinary disasters at home. [Boston]

Umami Tries Hard and Sometimes Delivers; Devour ‘Passionately Browned’ Meat at