Ms. Unterman joins the growing legion of dedicated fans of Anthony Mangieri’s Una Pizza Napoletana. She begins by describing a scene in Italy, in which she had an amazing margherita pizza in Naples and writes, “I had never tasted any better piece of food.” She seems to ascribe the same veneration to Mangieri’s work, saying, “Each bite is different, changing as you chew. This pizza is all about transformation, about texture.” She recommends the margherita and the filetti, but sounds a little less enthusiastic about the smoked mozzarella on the “elusive Ilaria,” which is only sometimes available anyway. Suffice it to say: she’s hooked. [Examiner]
