It turns out Michael Bauer isn’t such a fan of steakhouses, particularly the high-end, chef spinoff variety. But he says he “began to reconsider” this opinion at Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak, which took over the Michael Mina space at the St. Francis. He says the food “has a spark of creativity, and the setting… is glorious,” with some of “the best steaks you’ll find.” He highlights the bone-in, wet-aged ribeye, and calls the short-ribs “as good as any I’ve found.” And he also likes several side dishes like the crispy bone marrow, peas and carrots, and the creamed corn. The only disappointment he mentions: the cioppino (“It seemed too refined, and I missed the earthy elements that make this dish so appealing.”) The ultimate verdict: a laudatory three stars. [Chron]
