GQ just released their list of the country’s top ten new restaurants, and Barbara Lynch’s posh, polished Menton made the cut. But we had to smile and then cry at Alan Richman’s review, which is one long back-handed compliment, rife with understatement and odd anthropological musings. Please, allow us to break it down for your quick perusal.
The subtitle: “A chef from the projects gets posh.” Hard-hitting. But we’re pretty sure Barbara Lynch didn’t claw her way out of poverty to launch Menton. We soldier on.
As a young chef working for Todd English, Barbara from the block couldn’t find her way to Cambridge. However: “Barbara Lynch has changed since growing up in the Southie projects.” Apparently she now has a better sense of direction? Owns a GPS?
Note: She is now a “celebrated” chef with one of Boston’s “fanciest” restaurants.
And, hallelujah! Diners are “living up to the restaurant.” Richman “can’t recall seeing such a nicely dressed dinner crowd in America’s worst-dressed city.” Hey now! Ever been to D.C.? Sheesh.
“Menton is gracious, serious, luxurious.” And, in conclusion, “very un-Boston.”
Uh, thanks? We think?
For further reading: Things That Make You Go Hmm [Grub Street]