The Other Critics

Kauffman Hits Up San Dong House; Reidinger Calls Another Monkey ‘Electrifying’

We gave Jonathan Kauffman a hard time a few months ago with regard to a few of his choices of reviews — mostly we just wanted him not to review mediocre three-year-old holes in walls when there were some bigger, and newer fish to fry this year. But all is forgiven now that he’s given some good ink to big summer openers like Prospect and Benu, and smaller ones like Sons & Daughters and Hog & Rocks. This week he cleanses the palate by going to San Dong House (3741 Geary) for some authentic, hand-pulled noodles. He calls the pork and cabbage dumplings “remarkable” and the lamb dumplings “magnificent… with just enough gaminess to them to evoke the lamb, but a more mellow succulence than the ones at Kingdom of Dumpling.” He recommends the oxtail soup noodles, and the “even better beef with beef tendon noodles,” complimenting the noodles’ texture as “paradoxically soft and still bouncy.” You should, however, avoid the barbecue skewers at all costs. [SF Weekly]

Mr. Reidinger says he “winced” when he heard Another Monkey was moving in to the strikingly designed space that was once home to Conduit, but he’s relieved to say, “The restaurant’s high-style interior is intact, while the food is electrifying.” Again, despite such lines, it can be hard to tell what exactly he loves, but he does seem to enjoy the hung le curry of pork belly, calling it “marvelous, a kind of gingery stew served in a handsome little pot, the meat stringy but tender and a scattering of fresh peanuts for textural counterpoint.” There’s a photo of a black cod dish, but no mention of it, and he also kind of likes the tom yum shrimp nachos. [SFBG]

Kauffman Hits Up San Dong House; Reidinger Calls Another Monkey