The Other Critics

Josh Sens Revels in the ‘Cosmopolitan Cooking’ at Commonwealth

The squid/bone marrow dish.
The squid/bone marrow dish. Photo: Chris Andre/SF Mag

Fast on the heels of Bauer’s Sunday review, we see Josh Sens at San Francisco magazine filing his own take on Commonwealth, opening with the revelation of the the bone-marrow-stuffed squid dish, calling the pairing “so beautifully intuitive that I marveled I hadn’t eaten it before,” and comparing it to a Reese’s peanut butter cup. He goes further to rave about the affordability of it all, and says “the exotic influences are understated here. This is cosmopolitan cooking, food so confident that it doesn’t need to brag about where it’s been,” and he says the service is “low-key but capable of culinary geek speak.” Along with giving the place three stars, he writes, in summary, “Like its sibling in spirit, Oakland’s Commis, Commonwealth is a tribute to fine dining that doesn’t make you feel as if you’ve stepped on holy ground.” [SF Mag, Earlier slideshow]

Josh Sens Revels in the ‘Cosmopolitan Cooking’ at Commonwealth