The Other Critics

Unterman Is Charmed But Slightly Disappointed By Local: Mission Eatery; Boer Loves Élevé in the W.C.

Patricia Unterman praises “food romantics” Yaron Milgrom and Jake DesVoignes in her review of Local: Mission Eatery, calling their dinners “voluptuous,” and the space “homey, low-key, intensely local.” She says the summer squash cazuela is “one of the nicest vegetarian dishes in town,” and the halibut with roasted pumpkin, grapes and a parsley root purée is “a surprisingly luscious combination.” But she’s uncharacteristically un-enthused by several other dishes, like the gnocchi with mozzarella and a sweet poached fig with pulled pork, and she lets rip a zinger about the wine list, curated by Terroir, “[which] made me think that the $20 corkage might be worth it.” [Examiner]

Nicholas Boer filed yesterday’s Datebook review of Élevé in Walnut Creek, starting with the Baby Clam Mint Toss, a dish from chef Cuong Du’s hometown of Da Nang, Vietnam. “Scooping up the pungent mix with the crunchy crackers creates a mood both exotic and homey.” He also loves the shaking beef, and the yellow curry which he calls “pure comfort food.” Overall: two and a half stars. [Chron]

Bauer teases out a few favorite dishes and one cocktail sure to be featured in upcoming reviews: the Rhum Dandy at Bar Agricole which he calls an “adult snow cone”; the patty melt at Hog & Rocks; and another new favorite steak tartare at Café Des Amis. [Between Meals/Scoop]

And last but not least, Tablehopper’s Marcia Gagliardi reviews Thermidor, and finds herself a bit overwhelmed by all the butter. While she loves Bruce Binn’s signature Parker House rolls (“the man has a way with carbs”), the cocktails, and the vertical Caesar salad, she’s less wowed by the retro dishes like the Celery Victor and the namesake Lobster Thermidor (“I could only bear a few bites”). [Tablehopper]

Unterman Is Charmed But Slightly Disappointed By Local: Mission Eatery; Boer