The Other Critics

Tamarkin Loves Vincent’s Snert; Vettel Thinks Sawtooth Lacks Bite

Get in line for some snert.
Get in line for some snert.

Dutch food may be “the most uncelebrated food on Earth,” but David Tamarkin finds plenty to love at Vincent. “I may not have ventured to try something called the snert, even after—especially after—it was explained to me that this dish is just a pea soup. But it turns out I love snert.” He also approves of the “zaansemosterdsoep.” [TOC]

Phil Vettel thinks that Sawtooth may look “like just the sort of place that would draw in the dressy young things who descend on the Market District dining scene,” but the food “needs more seasoning.” “For the people who will sneer that there’s better Vietnamese food in the no-frills shops along Argyle Street, well, they’re right.” [Trib]

Kevin Pang heads out of the city to visit Beverly Shores’s Rolling Stonebaker, a roving pizza truck, which may “be the strongest argument yet in favor of food trucks in Chicago.” The “Choke-N-Shroom,” which receives a “slather of mellow roasted garlic, with ricotta, baby bella mushrooms and strips of artichoke hearts atop,” is “terrific.” And each pizza features a “1,000-degree-heat blackened crust and bubbled cheese.” [Trib]

Tamarkin Loves Vincent’s Snert; Vettel Thinks Sawtooth Lacks Bite