The Other Critics

Reidinger Revels in Papito’s Corn; Kauffman Tours the Town’s Bakeries

Oh, Reidinger, Reidinger. How we do look forward to your reviews, if only to see you use phrases like “the menu is immaculately, if grandly, Mexican,” as you do in this week’s review of Jocelyn Bulow’s Potrero taqueria, Papito. You’re quick to mention the duck confit quesadilla, which isn’t quite so Mexican, and the “serious, heavyweight, mealworthy” chorizo quesadilla, which is. You’re not so hot for frijoles negros, but you return to your preferred hyperbole calling the grilled corn on the cob “a revelation.” Thank you again, Mr. Reidinger. Until next week, when hopefully you flirt with a server again. [SFBG]

Meanwhile, over at the Weekly, Jonathan Kauffman does one of his multi-reviews, hitting up the new crop of “micro-patisseries” around town like Pinkie’s Bakery, Goody Goodie (1246 Folsom), and Knead Patisserie (in back of Local: Mission Eatery). He recommends Pinkie’s caramelized onion and gruyère brioche, he calls the scones and croissants at Sandbox Bakery “pitch perfect,” and at Knead he notes the pomme d’amour, which he describes (“a custard-filled pastry circle with a caramelized-sugar top”) rather than names. [SF Weekly]

Reidinger Revels in Papito’s Corn; Kauffman Tours the Town’s