The Other Critics

Sifton Leaves Fornino Park Slope to the Locals; Cuozzo, Cheshes Split on Nuela

Fornino Park Slope is “an elegantly casual Italian trattoria … a comfortable destination for those who live nearby,” says Sam Sifton. The Scotto pizza in particular is “a marvel of structural integrity, with great texture beneath the creaminess.” [NYT]
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Nuela is shrill on eyes, ears and palate … The look of the place screams ‘drunken party zone,’” laments Steve Cuozzo. Inconsistency is the main problem: “Ceviches score two times out of three … The pendulum slashes through main plates as well.” [NYP]
Related: A Report From Inside Nuevo Latino Newcomer Nuela

“The big surprise [at Nuela] is how well the place actually works,” Jay Cheshes notes. “For better or worse, [the restaurant] has a brash party vibe … Huge entrée platters are also well suited to the fiesta spirit,” the “ceviche bar, meanwhile, is a destination in its own right.” [TONY]

Lina Frey “is not destination dining,” says Lila Byock. “The menu is unlikely to surprise … portions are small, to accommodate sharing, and the prices are as modest as the ambitions.” [NYer]
Related: First Look at Lina Frey’s Retractable Skylight and Sidewalk Crêpe Window

“There are some dazzling oddities on Lu Xiang Yuan’s menu,” notes Robert Sietsema, but he’s less than thrilled with the execution. A spinach pancake “might have been mistaken for Astroturf,” and “the most promising dish on the menu was also the most disappointing,” a rose-covered roasted fish slathered in mayonnaise. [VV]

At Eataly, Gael Greene isn’t fully sold: Stingy portions mar “a mostly satisfying dinner at Manzo Ristorante”; “the bread is soft and boring” at Il Pesce, though the fish itself is extraordinary; the place “may turn out to be Walmario’s.” [Insatiable Critic]
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Sifton Leaves Fornino Park Slope to the Locals; Cuozzo, Cheshes Split on Nuela