The Other Critics

Bauer Loves Gitane, Hates Not Getting His Own Cocktail Menu

Bridget Batson
Bridget Batson

In today’s Datebook, Michael Bauer returns to Gitane, where he writes, “the Iberian-inspired menu has become even more exciting under [recently arrived chef] Bridget Batson.” He calls out the garlicky and olive-y calamares (also one of our new favorite dishes in town), as well as the sautéed radishes with harissa, and the blue nose bass. “Flavors are bold,” he says, “but nicely integrated.” Also, he notes that the desserts have gotten better. All told: Three stars. [Chron]

In other news, is Mikey having a bad week? He writes the second peevish post in two days on his blog today, this time griping about places that don’t give each individual at the table their own cocktail list — Spoonbar, up in Healdsburg, whose drink menu is like 30 pages long, is apparently guilty. Somebody give the man a hug. [Between Meals/Scoop]

And in this week’s review of a new place, Mandy Erickson hops down to check out one of several new arrivals in downtown San Mateo’s hopping restaurant scene, Kokko. The name of the new yakitori is Japanese baby talk for “chicken,” and she recommends the excellent kara-age skewers, “chunks of succulent thigh fried in a light, crisp batter,” which she calls “excellent.” There’s no sushi at Kokko, but there was some raw beef liver on offer one night, which Erickson makes sound pretty hateful (um, yah!). The ramen, though, is apparently fantastic. [Chron, Unterman’s earlier take]

Bauer Loves Gitane, Hates Not Getting His Own Cocktail Menu