The Other Critics

The Gallows Gets a Twofer; Surprises at Las Ventas

• Robert Nadeau gives The Gallows three stars, though he hates the name: “There’s nothing morbid or goth inside this spiffed-up bar of re-planed wormy-white cedar barn boards. Chef Seth Morrison (ex-Vee Vee) does the comfort-food thing but then goes gourmand on a locovore theme. The true test of locovores is February, not August, but with a steadier hand on the salt shaker, Morrison could be, well, killer.” [Phoenix]

• Mat Schaffer, meanwhile, bestows The Gallows with a very positive B: “With its reliance on seasonal, locally grown, sustainably raised ingredients, its house-made pickles and smart and affordably priced beer, wine and cocktail lists, the Gallows is a restaurant reflective of its times. But the bottom line is, Morrison knows how to cook. I’m a member of the fan club.” [Herald]

• MC Slim JB drops by Las Ventas, where the “dozen-strong bocadillo lineup shows, all it takes is excellent bread, quality imported meats and cheeses, and the occasional throw-in from your brother’s fine-dining kitchen to yield a can’t-miss lunchtime option. Who knew the Spaniards could make such amazing sandwiches?” Um, we did. [Phoenix]

• Cheap Eats drops by Rafiki Bistro, which “feels like a restaurant still getting its bearings.” [Globe]

The Gallows Gets a Twofer; Surprises at Las Ventas