The Other Critics

Nagrant Has Problems with Lillie’s Q; Tamarkin Deals with the Sugar Addicts at Sprinkles

The pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw.
The pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw. Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

The “problem” Michael Nagrant figures with Charlie McKenna’s Lillie’s Q is that “it’s a tough transition from BBQ competition to restaurant repetition.” The “sting of any inconsistency” haunts the restaurant. While the tri-tip has been “has been drool-worthy for the most discerning Gibsons expense-accounter,” it has also been “grayish and as leathery.” The ribs alternative between “mushy-skinned baby food” and “dry tough jerky.” With barbecue, “you’re really only as good as your last rack.”

Braving the tweens and their sugar addicted mother, David Tamarkin can’t imagine how the cupcakes at Sprinkes Cupcakes could “possibly be worth it.” Then he takes a bite. “But what do you know? …the homey cake had an impressive, moist crumb, and the icing was glazed on the cake with blessed restraint.” His advice: “Chocolate flavors are better than non-chocolate.” [TOC]

The Boiler Room puts out a “a respectable thin-crust” according to Heather Shouse, and almost transcends its bar surroundings. “Since nobody expects perfect pizza from a bar, when we ended up with one pretty decent pie and another tasting so salty we couldn’t finish a single slice, we chalked up the inconsistency to that Jameson on tap.” [TOC]

Julia Kramer does her best Ruth Reichl Twitter impression while reviewing Stax Cafe, mulling poetry with her breakfast: “Is there a thing more beautiful than an omelette of uniform, pastel yellowness, no blemishes of aggressive heat or slicks of tired oil?” To bad the the Toad in the Hole was “an unremarkable thing.” Still it was saved by the “click-split” of the sausage. [TOC]

Nagrant Has Problems with Lillie’s Q; Tamarkin Deals with the Sugar Addicts at