The Other Critics

Virbila Finds Chaya Venice Better Than Before; Gold Still Gaga for Guelaguetza

Guelaguetza Photo: Calmenda via Flickr

S. Irene Virbila has long felt that Chaya Venice is the worst of the chain, having “had some strikingly bad meals” there (hey, us too!). She has trouble finding the supposed design changes that occurred during a reboot, but does encounter “a new energy in the kitchen…under chef de cuisine Yuichi Natori.” Though he’s quite fond of mustard, Virbila declares “I like the food more.” [L.A. Times]

When it comes time for World Cup, J. Gold naturally finds a comfortable roost at Guelaguetza, which if you don’t know by now, he considers “one of the best Oaxacan restaurants in the country.” [L.A. Weekly]

Virbila goes crazy for the charcuterie at Waterloo & City, citing it as “the real thing.” She thinks “Collins and Tomazos have a hit” on their hands if the servers and kitchen can keep up with the pace. [L.A. Times]

Jonathan Gold breaks down the importance of fried chicken during this, our “fried chicken summer.” Crowds for Ludo’s truck and Greenspan’s bird might have been huge, but “there has never been a crowd quite like there was at Eva” for Mark Gold’s beer-teamed, bottomless version. Still, Eva’s strength is in “the relaxed but remarkably detailed cuisine Gold puts out every night.” [L.A. Weekly]

Where to go for your 50th birthday? Mr. Gold wants to push you towards those bacon-wrapped dogs, but understands that Michael Voltaggio’s cooking at Dining Room at the Langham would be a better fit for a grand occasion. [L.A. Weekly]

Los Angeles magazine likes Stefan Richter’s Cali cuisine at Stefan’s on Montana, most of all when it reveals Scandinavian roots. As good as the dishes are, “The operation doesn’t seem to know whether it’s a fine-dining or casual neighborhood joint.” [Los Angeles]

Merrill Shindler looks at Bamboo Thai in Redondo, finding modern translations of Thai classics and lots of dishes with nuts. [Daily Breeze]

Virbila Finds Chaya Venice Better Than Before; Gold Still Gaga for Guelaguetza