The Other Critics

Bauer *Almost* Gives Heirloom Three Stars; Erickson Enjoys Pizza at Acqua Pazza

Photo: Georg Lester/Grub Street

We’re sure Matt Straus is a little frustrated by Michael Bauer’s review of his new oenofile haven Heirloom Café, because Bauer basically dangles the three-star carrot and then whips it away at the last second. He writes that on first glance, given the very short and simple food menu, “I wondered whether the place warranted a full review,” but he’s won over by the “aura of authority and sophistication” in the place, the fact that you feel like “you’re eating in someone’s home,” and the quality of the main courses and wine pairings he tried. Still, though, he gives it two and a half stars because the menu doesn’t change often enough, but he adds, “I can see [it] developing an almost cultlike following, much like Flour+Water and Frances.” [Chron]

Mandy Erickson makes a visit to two-year-old Acqua Pazza in San Mateo, where she finds a “celebration of ingredients” and several pizzas and pastas worth trying. Overall, she gives it two stars, noting that one night the service “was so slow we stumbled out of the restaurant more than two hours after we sat down.” [Chron]

Bauer *Almost* Gives Heirloom Three Stars; Erickson Enjoys Pizza at Acqua Pazza