Last summer, the DOH closed Chinatown’s Express B.B.Q. shack for operating without a permit. Imagine our delight when, from afar, we saw it up and running again — and imagine our disappointment when, taking a few steps closer, we saw no charcoal grill, no skewered fish balls, just some packaged junk food and Chinese newspapers. That’s right, a couple of weeks ago Express B.B.Q. reopened as a boring ol’ newsstand. Except, wait, not all boring: The shed is selling Chupa Chups (the beloved Spanish lollipops) in a variety of flavors. And unlike at Despaña, where they go for $1, they’re just 35 cents here. At least there’s that.