The Other Critics

Gold Gets In Line for Terroni’s Fascism; Merrill Goes Manic for Mojitos at Havana Mania

After joining a growing media trend of throwing the word “Nazi” around, Jonathan Gold declares that Terroni “may actually feel more Italian than anywhere else in Los Angeles at the moment,” and had it opened before Mozza would be noted for its pizza, even if substitutions (and pizza cutters) are aggravatingly verboten and the kitchen “bites” for using canned tuna. [L.A. Weekly]

Merrill Shindler declares Havana Mania “one of the best places in the South Bay to go for a well-crafted mojito…a good plate of pollo Cubano and ropa vieja - and some live music to boot.” [Daily Breeze]

Jonathan Gold agrees that the “bit too long from the oven” pizza at all-you-can-eat Brazilian Bella Vista isn’t the world’s greatest, but if you’ve ever wanted the “opportunity to taste a lot more pizza than is generally healthy or prudent,” this is a fun spot that keeps it coming. [L.A. Weekly]

If it’s early in the night and the chef is still cooking, you might not want to shake his hand out of safety concerns, but if it’s late and he’s done in the kitchen, go for it, offers Mr. Gold. [L.A. Weekly]

“Though the honey-braised pork shank may verge on being too polite,” Los Angeles finds that Quadruppel Brasserie’s “shiitake-filled jidori chicken roulade on polenta asserts itself in all the right ways.” [Los Angeles]

Gold Gets In Line for Terroni’s Fascism; Merrill Goes Manic for Mojitos at