The Other Critics

ABC Kitchen Wins Sifton Over; Brooklyn Fare Is ‘Astonishing’

Sam Sifton visits the “very good” ABC Kitchen, where “the food is great and not terribly expensive” and the ecoconscious experience “represents fantasy, wealth without guilt, socially responsible hedonism.” [NYT]
Related: Inside ABC Kitchen

The Kitchen at Brooklyn Fare is “not quite the Brooklyn Per Se, but it certainly harbors that type of ambition,” says Jay Cheshes. César Ramirez “produces some astonishing food — some of the best small-plate cuisine in New York.” [TONY]
Earlier: César Ramirez Sticks With the Chef’s Counter

Nate Appleman’s pizzas at Pulino’s are “pretty good,” says Alan Richman. But “the room is too cramped and too uncomfortable for anything other than snacking. It’s too noisy and hectic for real dining.” [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: McNally Defends Pulino’s

Ryan Sutton says “Torrisi Italian Specialties might be Manhattan’s best Italian-American restaurant … it evokes Momofuku Ko’s stripped down, rock & roll approach to fine dining.” [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat for Dinner at Torrisi Italian Specialties

“At the Mark, spectacle generally trumps taste, or at least preëmpts it,” says Katherine Stirling. “Choices are sometimes made more complicated than they ought to be,” but still the “the humble is often less successful than the flamboyant.” [NYer]
Earlier: Critics Still Make Vongerichten Nervous

The Beef 7 Ways at Má Pêche is “brilliant in conception and in execution,” says Ed Levine. “With this seven-course celebration of all things beef, they deliver the city’s most intense beef hit.” [Serious Eats NY]
Inside Má Pêche’s Dining Room

Pearl Oyster Bar is civilized summer in a lobster roll,” says Gael Greene.”There is a huge morsel of chewy mayo-swathed lobster right on top and a dozen more that are just right.” [Insatiable Critic]

ABC Kitchen Wins Sifton Over; Brooklyn Fare Is ‘Astonishing’