The Other Critics

Vettel Gives Bonsoiree Three Stars; Tamarkin Finds Dismissive Service at Floriole Cafe & Bakery

Bonsoiree in Logan Square
Bonsoiree in Logan Square Photo: courtesy Bonsoiree

Phil Vettel gives Logan Square’s Bonsoiree three stars, saying that it has emerged as the “the most exciting, innovative BYO in Chicago.” He ends up calling chef Shin Thompson a genius by the end of the review for the way he can blend Asian and French cuisines. [Trib]

David Tamarkin has the “single best ham-and-cheese croissant this city,” at Floriole Cafe & Bakery in Lincoln Park, the new stand alone bakery from Green City Market star Sandra Holl. Unfortunately, it’s the space, not the food, that gets on Tamarkin’s nerves: “The giant, bi-level space is filled with natural light, but its barren walls and stark metal chairs render it emotionally cold. The service isn’t too warm, either—after repeated visits I found it consistently dismissive, sometimes a little haughty and—once—literally unwelcoming.” [TOC]

Though it’s “loud as hell,” Julia Kramer gives three stars to Vintage 338. “Father-and-son team Tom and Chris Barkulis have developed a menu of casual European plates much heartier than your average finicky wine-bar small plates.” The wine is also well picked out, and fairly affordable. [TOC]

The flip side to Vintage 338 is Blue Star Wine Bar, which Kramer gives one star, only because she felt pity for the waiter who was the “sweetest and most gracious man on the planet.” The same can’t be said about the food. The “Catalan Toast” is “smothered in prosciutto and fig jam, and looked like the result of a stoner let loose in an Italian deli.” [TOC]

Vettel Gives Bonsoiree Three Stars; Tamarkin Finds Dismissive Service at