In the Magazine

Platt Capitulates to ABC Kitchen’s Gimmicks; Debating Dining-Room Photography

ABC Kitchen
ABC Kitchen Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine

In the magazine this week, Adam Platt eats at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen, whose locavore kitchen he calls the chef’s “most overtly gimmicky undertaking yet.” But the “impeccably sourced, beautifully composed” meal demands “studious, almost scholarly silences, punctuated by quiet exclamations of pleasure.”

Beth Landman assesses the debate over amateur dining-room photography, with commentary from chefs like John Fraser of Dovetail (for, within reason), and Corton’s Paul Liebrandt (against).

How do you prepare and serve a hundred-layer lasagne? Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld dissect the one at Del Posto, right down to the special serving spatula. If you’re looking for something lighter, asparagus is in season at the Greenmarket, where you can also pick up a bottle of small-batch Tuscan olive oil.

In this week’s openings, Rob and Robin learn that the pizza at Michael Ayoub’s Fornino Park Slope will be grilled instead of oven-fired, while Diablo Royale Este expands on the menu of its West Village sibling with large-format dishes like cochinita pibil.

Platt Capitulates to ABC Kitchen’s Gimmicks; Debating Dining-Room