The Other Critics

Nagrant Attacks Medieval Times and Crowns Ria

Ria is not as stuffy as you might think.
Ria is not as stuffy as you might think. Photo: Helen Rosner

Though initially troubled by Ria’s extravagant prices and swank location, Michael Nagrant actually concludes that it is “an oasis—of unpretentious fine dining.” He gushes over the decor, the sommelier, and almost all the food. “Ria is a five-star restaurant waiting to happen, derailed only by minor details such as an empty cocktail glass ignored or an almond baba cake that’s a little dry and bread-like.” [Modern Luxury]

How did we miss Nagrant’s ode to Medieval Times from last week? There are too many quotable lines in the piece to quite due it justice. Let’s just say he mulls his roll as a critic, attempts to eat his “baby dragon” dinner, and drinks a piña colada. Eventually he comes away learning something: “Medieval Times originated on the Spanish island of Majorca in 1973. There’s something really comforting in knowing that America is not entirely responsible for the promulgation of such kitsch.” [New City]

Nagrant Attacks Medieval Times and Crowns Ria