The Other Critics

Nagrant Hypes Sable; MBurger’s Simple Pleasures Impress Tamarkin

Michael Nagrant drops some anonymous digs at what he feels is an over-hyped new restaurant, before settling in to a thrilling meal at Heather Terhune’s Sable. He feels that she’s paid her dues over the years at the Atwood Cafe, and that her new River North spot deserves the spotlight: “Terhune’s time is now. Believe the hype.” He even finds a version of fancy “sliders” that he doesn’t hate. [New City]

David Tamarkin ponders the indefinable essence of what makes a burger good as he tackles both MBurger and J. Wellington’s. Eventually, he decides that he prefers the simple McDonald’s-esque joy of the former to the overbearing gluttony of the latter: “Maybe it’s all that sugary ketchup, or the sugary buns, or the soft mouthfeel of the beef that makes for effortless inhaling. Whatever it is, eating these burgers is pure happiness.” [TOC]

Macku Sushi gets three stars from Laura Baginski, thanks to some better than average appetizers, and an unusual attention to detail. She talks up the fresh fish at several points, though is oddly perplexed as to way she didn’t like the whole experience more. [TOC]

Nagrant Hypes Sable; MBurger’s Simple Pleasures Impress Tamarkin