The Other Critics

Sifton Pulls a Star From Chin Chin; Meatball Shop’s Sub Worth the Splurge

“A certain roughness to the plating of the food” leads Sam Sifton to knock Chin Chin down from its two stars, awarded in 1987, to one. But “it’s quiet and polite, a wonderful place to eat,” and classic dishes like shrimp Grand Marnier remain “delicious beyond compare.” [NYT]

The Meatball Shop “does only one thing, but does it very well,” says Robert Sietsema. He’s partial to the beef and pork meatballs, especially when delivered via sub sandwich, but finds the salmon version “truly awful.” [VV]
Related: One-Stop Meatball Shopping

“It’s the kind of meal that makes you grateful you thrive on the three main food groups: fat, salt and sugar” says Gael Greene of the recently reopened Pies-N-Thighs. But the crowds and long wait lead her to believe it’s “best left to the millennials.” [Insatiable Critic]

“Food comes hot. Glasses stay filled,” says Lauren Collins of A Voce Columbus, and as such it’s perfect for certain moments: “celebrating a merger or a successful attempt at finding one’s way back to the Mandarin Oriental after a carriage ride in Central Park.” [NYer]

Ryan Sutton thinks Colicchio & Sons is “one of the most exciting new places to eat in New York … because Colicchio knows disparate ingredients with distinct flavors might confuse the palate but won’t displease it.” [Bloomberg]

“The quality of the meat measures up,” says Gabriella Gershonson about Mile End, and the poutine is “perhaps the best I’ve ever had, here or in Montreal.” Her hypothesis: “The restaurant does for Canadian cuisine what Frankies did for Italian — it’s hipsterfying it.” [TONY]
Earlier: Openings Preview: First Look at Mile End

The chicken with truffles at La Mangeoire drives Alan Richman to the brink: It’s “unparalleled, comfort food for kings, so sensuous I went temporarily insane and started thinking of Cleopatra in her bath.” It’s advance-order only, but the regular menu runs strong, too. [GQ]

Sifton Pulls a Star From Chin Chin; Meatball Shop’s Sub Worth the Splurge