The Other Critics

Sifton Praises Colicchio & Sons; Cuozzo Wants Old Clarke’s Back

Sam Sifton gives Colicchio & Sons its kindest review yet: “For the moment, anyway, Mr. Colicchio’s is the must-try New York menu. His restaurant isn’t perfect. But it is exciting. And the food is terrifically good.” [NYT]
Related: What to Eat at Colicchio & Sons

The dessert is the highlight of Colicchio & Sons for Jay Cheshes: “Despite high-end pretensions … Colicchio seems only tepidly committed to delivering a real fine-dining experience. [TONY]

Gael Greene has already been to ABC Kitchen twice. “Vegetables are being reinvented,” she writes, “and I am determined to taste them all.” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at ABC Kitchen

Larry Forgione’s presence at P.J. Clarke’s is not welcomed by Steve Cuozzo: “Has the beloved watering hole and grill immortalized on-screen in The Lost Weekend lost its grip? [NYP]

“You would think, with Conant in the kitchen, not much could go wrong. A lot does,” writes Alan Richman of Faustina. On the upside, “I don’t believe anybody will depart Faustina complaining about the cost of food.” [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: Faustina’s Menu, Illustrated

“The gastro is overwhelmed by the pub,” Ryan Sutton says of Highlands, “which is unfortunate because chef William Hickox, late of the Michelin-starred Public, has given New York its only refined Scottish menu.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Inside Highlands

“The appetizers and sandwiches are good, the entrées not. Order accordingly,” suggests Leo Carey about dining at Corsino. [NYer]
First Look: Corsino

“Ultimately, you should put a meal together without regard for distinctions the menu makes between apps and mains,” Robert Sietsema suggests for a meal at Brighton Beach’s Skovorodka, where the menu is comprised of “regional fare from former Soviet republics.” [VV]

Sifton Praises Colicchio & Sons; Cuozzo Wants Old Clarke’s Back