The Other Critics

Sifton Sees Promise at Recette; Cheshes Goes on a Sandwich Run

“Ms. Lee and Mr. Schenker are going to be around for a while,” Sam Sifton predicts of the chefs at Recette. “The menu is remarkably free of stuff that’s available everywhere else.” [NYT]
Related: First Look at Recette

Jay Cheshes tries several of the city’s new sandwich shops and finds something to like at Saltie, Torrisi Italian Specialties, and the Meatball Shop, but says at This Litty Piggy Had Roast Beef, “a short-order cook zips through a limited roster of messy sandwiches and trashy sides.” [TONY]

“There’s nothing like the shock of a messy divorce to bring out the best in some women,” Gael Greene writes after a night at Mia Dona sans Michael Psilakis. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: What to Eat at Mia Dona 2.0

“Meticulous appearances mask trouble” at Le Caprice, says Lila Byock, who blasted most of the food there and deemed the service “unforgivable.” [NYer]
Related: Inside Le Caprice

Print is a fuzzily positioned very good restaurant in a neighborhood that even the most intrepid New Yorkers rarely get to unless they happen to be buying a car,” writes Ed Levine. “If [Heather Carlucci-Rodriguez and Charles Rodriguez] give the restaurant more of a distinctive focus, it could actually become a destination restaurant.” [Serious Eats NY]

Don’t miss the obanzai at Hibino, Robert Sietsema urges: “These are seasonal, homestyle dishes of the [Kyoto] region, and they’re spectacular.” [VV]

Keens isn’t old-fashioned; it’s old school,” Ryan Sutton enthuses. “No amuse bouche, just a plate of cold carrots and pickles. No petits fours, just a bowl of mints by the exit. No snobbish chefs, I don’t even know who he is.” [Bloomberg]

Alan Richman considers the twenty-year span of the Tribeca Grill: “The menu has few surprises and no major disappointments. The portions are jumbo. … The prices are reasonable.” [Forked/GQ]

Sifton Sees Promise at Recette; Cheshes Goes on a Sandwich Run