The Other Critics

Kauffman Falls Hard for Korean Junk Food; Bauer Has a Silence of the Lambs Moment at Incanto

• Jonathan Kauffman credits Kogi BBQ, the Korean taco truck, with “igniting this city’s street-cart and pop-up-restaurant scenes.” Whether that’s really accurate or not, he goes on to review the many offspring and relatives of Kogi who are serving excellent Korean junk food around the Bay, including Seoul on Wheels, John’s Snack & Deli, and Namu. [SF Weekly]

• Bauer compliments “the utter confidence [chef Chris] Cosentino shows in the main courses” at Incanto, especially praising a lamb liver appetizer as well, and having a bit of a “Silence of the Lambs moment” with some fava beans and a glass of Chianti. [Chron]

• Paul Reidinger heads over to 5A5, the “next-generation” steakhouse that replaced Frisson in that space-age-y interior on Jackson Street, and he sounds mostly impressed. He notes that chef Allen Chen’s menu “lays a surprisingly light hand on the meat,” which is primarily Wagyu beef, and he calls the flavor patterns “polycultural but vigorous,” which we think is a compliment. [SFBG]

Mini-Reviews: Kauffman also filed this mini-review yesterday of Mission Turkish outpost Tuba, and his take is just as lackluster as Reidinger’s, but he gives props to the “succulent” lamb chop. [SF Weekly]

And Cooking With the Single Guy heads over to True Burger, Oakland’s new Shake-Shack-like burger joint, a hop down Grand Street from Broadway and opened by a couple Bay Wolf and Delfina alums. His grade sounds like an A. [Cooking With the Single Guy]

Kauffman Falls Hard for Korean Junk Food; Bauer Has a Silence of the