The Other Critics

Sifton Finds City’s ‘Best Pizza’; Cuozzo Crushes Tea Room

Motorino is having a moment,” Sam Sifton decrees. “That seems fair. It serves the city’s best pizza.” [NYT]

Alan Richman joins Maialino’s joyful chorus: “Everything [Nick Anderer] prepares is under control, with not a single dish disappointing, and all I can do is nit-pick.” (He loved the bar menu back in December, too.) [Forked and Corked/GQ]
Earlier: Inside Maialino

At Scott Conant’s Faustina, the “mostly Italian small dishes are almost all good or very good,” decides Gael Greene. “This is not a Scarpetta clone.” [Insatiable Critic]
Earlier: Faustina’s Menu, Illustrated

Ed Levine tries something new in 40 years of eating at Katz’s: table service. His favorite dishes include pastrami, of course. [Serious Eats]

Jay Cheshes doesn’t have a lot of nice things to say about his experience at Al Bustan — “the new décor reads like a bad facelift,” “the best you can do … is make a meal of meze only” — but still gives it three stars. [TONY]

Ryan Sutton yearns for museum cafeterias after visits to Robert and the Wright: “Their food and design do not complement the great museums they reside in.”

“Neither gimmicks nor publicity can redeem dishes as horrible as many of the Russian Tea Room’s,” blasts Steve Cuozzo. “This is a kitchen beyond hope of rescue.” [NYP]

Robert Sietsema didn’t like the Ethiopian food at Red Sea 47 until his third visit, when the doro wat was “just short of spectacular.” “I recommend smashing the egg with your fist, then stripping the chicken off the bones so that everyone may share it,” he suggests. [VV]

Sifton Finds City’s ‘Best Pizza’; Cuozzo Crushes Tea Room