The Other Critics

Sietsema, Cuozzo Try Choptank; Cheshes Revels in New Tabla

Robert Sietsema ate his way through Baltimore to prepare himself for a visit to Choptank, where “the generosity of the crabcake and its clean, fresh flavor were remarkable.” [VV]

“The best main courses [at Choptank] took leave of Chesapeake Bay for the familiar waters of Modern American cookery — and chef Matthew Schaefer’s way with fish lifts all boats,” Steve Cuozzo asserts. [NYP]

Tabla’s sprawling new menu, featuring lower prices on dishes once served only upstairs, includes an outstanding cross-section of regional vegetarian cookery,” Jay Cheshes writes. “The old Tabla is dead; long live the new one.” [TONY]

“The mix of middle eastern influences at Tanoreen makes for a jumbled, and satisfying, menu, says Sam Sifton. “Is such cooking authentic? Yes, though no. It doesn’t matter and who cares. It’s mostly delicious. Authenticity, anyway, is almost always a lie.” [NYT]

At Maialino, “the food, served with a relaxed, knowing smile, is usually delicious, occasionally spectacular,” writes Shauna Lyon. [NYer]

Gael Greene revisits Picholine and finds the love again. “It’s not as sexy as Daniel or as vibrant as Le Bernardin, but it’s hardly an old folks’ spa. … Once you start eating, you won’t care who’s sitting across the way.” [Insatiable Critic]

Ovest Pizzoteca “may not pack the same crowd” as Luzzo’s, observes Adam Kuban, “but the food quality is much the same, which is to say very good.” [Serious Eats NY]

Sietsema, Cuozzo Try Choptank; Cheshes Revels in New Tabla