The Other Critics

Lazy Ox Scoops Up Virbila’s Best Burger Nod; Gold Would Suffer Street Food Fest Again

Gold says it was all worth it
Gold says it was all worth it Photo: Hadley Tomicki

S. Irene Virbila agrees with us that “Lazy Ox Canteen is poised to become the restaurant of the moment,” giving it her vote for “best burger in town.” Not exactly on-board with her paper’s proclamation that animal parts are “Overrated,” she offers this as a small plates restaurant where “you won’t be bored after a couple of visits.” [L.A>.Times]

“Two hours and 34 minutes later, I had made a few new friends, met a dozen food bloggers, exchanged some business cards and acquired a really fine duck taco with mandarin segments,” J. Gold sunnily sums up while recounting this weekend’s street food fest. Go figure, he’d do it all again, especially for Ludo’s chicken which comes close “to gratin de queues d’écrevisses cooked by Fernand Point himself.” [L.A. Weekly]

Jonathan Gold takes yet another look at our Oaxacan scene and, though indeed it be large, yet again mentions Guelaguetza, El Texate, and Moles La Tia, making us feel we have to give El Texate yet another chance. [L.A. Weekly]

Quinn and Karen Hatfield’s cooking makes more sense in their new space, shares Jonathan Gold, who “visited the old Hatfield’s at least half a dozen times, and it wasn’t until they opened the new restaurant that I realized how well they cooked.” [L.A. Weekly]

Merrill Shindler calls Torrance’s kushiage-joint Huron “a postmodernist, post-rock ‘n’ roll Japanese fast-food joint” where “Chef Hiro Miune likes to wrap bacon around things” and has an “almost encyclopedic” number of skewer options. [Daily Breeze]

Patric Kuh gets the last word on Bouchon, celebrating Keller’s cockiness in ditching “a mishmash of brasserie rituals and haute techniques” to communicate “that eating is about uncomplicated pleasure.” “Even minor dishes bear the mark of excellence,” he exclaims. [Los Angeles Magazine]

Lazy Ox Scoops Up Virbila’s Best Burger Nod; Gold Would Suffer Street Food Fest