El Bulli’s galletas de arroz y parmesano: just a fad?
Photo: Charles Haynes/Flickr
Living, as we do, in the oh-em-gee game-changing moment in which Ferran Adria is temporarily shuttering El Bulli means that it’s the perfect time to pause and reflect on whether molecular gastronomy is here to stay. Which is exactly what the Wall Street Journal does, checking in with chefs across the world for their take on the scientifically manipulative style of cooking. Fergus Henderson doesn’t really get the appeal; British London-based chef Hélène Darroze finds it creative and meritorious; outspoken Adria critic Santi Santamaría thinks it’s “a byproduct of a sick society.” We’re assuming Tom Colicchio’s staying far away from this one, having said plenty in that infamous Diet Coke ad.
