The Other Critics

The Gorbals Gets Gold’s Nod for Best Fries; Forage Refuses His Fruit

Tasty, but effin' hot!
Tasty, but effin’ hot! Photo: Hadley Tomicki

The Gorbals has Jonathan Gold’s favorite fries of the moment and he digs the blisteringly hot baco-matzoh balls, among other dishes, still sensing the “chefs would rather be sitting on a couch smoking cigarettes…than flipping matzoh brei.” And is that just Ilan’s entourage up-front? [L.A. Weekly]

Don’t expect Costa Mesa’s Il Dolce to serve you anytime soon, as the service sort of lags, but its Argentine-Italian food “more than makes up for it,” S. Irene Virbila writes, dissing the wine list as “perfunctory” as a day popping piropo with your pibes. [L.A. Times]

Forage is “like a pregig potluck whose intrinsic veganism has been expanded to include ricotta cheese and the occasional slab of organic pork belly, all resting comfortably within the boundaries of conscious omnivorousness,” says Jonathan Gold, holding his sack of kumquats. [L.A. Weekly]

Much like California was once dominated by España, Jonathan Gold tells Matt Armendariz that its delicacies besiege us in tapas bars, restaurants, and markets citywide. He’ll also hit up La Paella if duty calls. [L.A. Weekly]

San Pedro’s Think Prime “is a steakhouse in the classic style, of the old school,” Merrill Shindler offers on the third link in the Think Cafe chain he’s always “thought highly of.” [Daily Breeze]

Bouchon “reminds me of a great ballerina who is reduced to teaching dancing to school children,” snaps Merv Hecht of the Santa Monica Daily Press, calling Alex Weil the “wine steward” and not finding the “French brasserie preparation” he expects, while not going “into great detail about what I find missing.” [Santa Monica Daily Press]

Stout’s “meat temperature can be inconsistent, but with that many condiments, it’s hard to notice,” offers Los Angeles magazine.” [Los Angeles]

The Gorbals Gets Gold’s Nod for Best Fries; Forage Refuses His Fruit