The Other Critics

LaBan Eschews Chew Man Chu

This Sunday, Craig LaBan filed a no-holds-barred and no-bells takedown of Chew Man Chu, Marty Grims’ pan-Asian joint in the Symphony House, saying it “not only distances itself from the apparently intimidating flavors of nearby Chinatown (“very ethnic … hard to understand for part of the Caucasian market,” Grims has been told), it does so with cliched style, and enough lacquered sweetness to make your teeth ache.” [Inquirer]

LaBan Eschews Chew Man Chu