The Other Critics

The Gorbals Grabs Virbila’s Heart; Gold Shoots Down Foodie ‘Snuff’

The Gorbals has been a hit with critics
The Gorbals has been a hit with critics Photo: Hadley Tomicki

S. Irene Virbila deems The Gorbals “weird and fun and a little rough around the edges, but definitely from the heart.” It’s the kind of grub Ilan Hall might “cook for friends in a garage band,” she offers after admitting she “really thought it had all been a dream” the next day. There were mimes when she was there, but strangely the wine list was “quite minimal.” [L.A. Times]

Jonathan Gold answers some weirdo’s question about the “food equivalent of a snuff film.” Doing his best to be there for everybody, he reviews the city’s bear paw/safari animal/fugu/dog meat/water buffalo skin scene, mostly convincing us it’s a good sign to have no primates on our menus. He also alludes to his buddy “Ruth.” [L.A. Weekly]

Doing more double duty at The L.A. Times, S. Irene Virbila dips her head into Bruce Marder’s House Café, where the menu is initially “something of a puzzle” though she ultimately enjoys several dishes. Even if it is a little noisy for her, the ‘hood seems taken by the “modestly priced, flexible option.” [L.A. Times]

J. Gold repeats himself a lil’ bit while reviewing Lazy Ox Canteen the second time, but states anew “Centeno’s vigorous, imaginative and not-quite-polished cooking is the sort of thing you want to dive into.” [L.A. Weekly]

Kagura “is part of a growing world of edgy Japanese restaurants” in Torrance, Merrill Shindler tells us, providing tempura, salads, grilled black cod, and chawan mushi “for a Brave New World.”
[Daily Breeze]

Mercantile is George Abou-Daoud’s “most ambitious effort yet,” writes Los Angeles magazine, who love the homemade products and Morningstar dishes, and think the ice-cream is “reason enough to come.” [Los Angeles]

The Gorbals Grabs Virbila’s Heart; Gold Shoots Down Foodie ‘Snuff’