The Other Critics

Sifton Dismisses Le Caprice; Cheshes Falls for Maialino

“You can have a fair evening at Le Caprice if you end up there on business, smiling tight in your chair at a client or boss, and stick to steak and those fries,” Sam Sifton writes in a no-star review. The American version of the storied London restaurant “falls flat.” [NYT]
Related: A Closer Look at Le Caprice

“Just like his boss, [Nick] Anderer fell for the ancient capital, and brings to his food an almost academic devotion,” writes Jay Cheshes in a four-star (out of five) love letter to Danny Meyer’s Maialino. [TONY]
Related: What to Eat at Maialino

Gael Greene brings Sam Sifton’s review of Imperial Palace to guide her own meal. Her verdict: “Should you truck out to Flushing? Yes, if like me, every once in a while you feel the need for adventure. And bring a friend who speaks Cantonese.” [Insatiable Critic]

“The pristine and humongous pork cutlets remain the center of attention, and you’d be crazy to eat at Katsuhama 55 without copping one,” Robert Sietsema writes of the new, expanded location of the Izakaya on 55th Street. [VV]

The best parts about dinner at Casa Lever are the wines and the desserts, according to Alan Richman. “I can only imagine how wonderful the restaurant might be were it not required by tradition to serve the two dullest dishes of Italy, Risotto Milanese (here called zafferano) and Cotoletta Milanese.” [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: Inside Casa Lever

“A little advice is welcome here, because the menu has a tendency to be hit or miss,” Andrea Thompson says of Piccola Cucina. She recommends the swordfish, the arancini, and the caprese salad. [NYer]
Related: First Look: Piccola Cucina

Sifton Dismisses Le Caprice; Cheshes Falls for Maialino