The Other Critics

Sepia Stays Solid; Brand BBQ Biffs

Sepia, in sepia.
Sepia, in sepia. Photo: Swanksalot/Flickr

• Phil Vettel finds that Sepia is still very good, despite Kendal Duque’s departure. Particularly excellent are the short ribs, “braised in Belgian ale for an uncommon depth of flavor, placed alongside spaetzle flavored with spice-bread seasonings (cinnamon and nutmeg among them) and some sweet red cabbage. Can something be a comfort-food classic if you’ve never had it before?” [Trib]

• Heather Shouse regrets that Brand BBQ is not the stellar ‘cue Chicago has been waiting for: “everything from the pulled pork to the brisket is underseasoned and overcooked, forcing the diner to drain the seven sauces alongside for flavor (and, in the process, obliterating the fundamental barbecue belief that good ’cue doesn’t need sauce).” [TOC]

Sepia Stays Solid; Brand BBQ Biffs