The Other Critics

Confusion at DMK Burger Bar; Heavy Eats at Hearty

Nella’s “outstanding” pie. Photo: courtesy Daniel Zemans/Slice]

• A classic old-man review from Pat Bruno, who doesn’t get the whole burger trend, so he blames the crowds clogging DMK Burger Bar on “the newness of the place.” He’s also down on the industrial-chic interior, which amplifies the “blaring” music, fries that aren’t as good as his personal favorites, and “eh” coleslaw. Good cupcakes, though. [Sun-Times]

• David Tamarkin files a mixed review for Hearty, where the creamy, fried, heart-stopping food is a little too heart-stopping (if delicious). Much is uneven, but there are moments of particular clarity on the menu — the deconstructed beefaroni with short ribs and squash, the Indian spiced pudding — that point the way to salvation. [TOC]

• For all that LoKal purports to have an international menu, Julia Kramer finds it Eastern European to the core: carbs stuffed with carbs, fried foods topped with creamy sauces. For all the gut-busting, it’d work conceptually, but for the sloppy kitchen execution. [TOC]

• Daniel Zemans was a little worried about swinging by Nella Pizzeria Napoletana during its soft-open, but finds that there really are no kinks to work out: after consuming some “outstanding pie,” Nella’s position as the ace pizzaiola in town is confirmed. [Slice]

Confusion at DMK Burger Bar; Heavy Eats at Hearty