The Other Critics

Sifton Dislikes the New Oceana; Another Rave for A Voce Columbus

“If the Oceana of old was a pleasant, shipshape room with elegant food and a caring touch, the new version is a high-functioning luxury mill, designed to service pre-theater crowds and to celebrate corporate success on expense-account dimes,” writes Sam Sifton. [NYT]

Travertine manages to be “a neighborhood spot with a velvet-rope sensibility,” says Jay Cheshes, who doesn’t mind the D.J. and likes chef Manuel Treviño’s fancy plate work. [TONY]
Related: First Look at Travertine and Top Chef Manuel Treviño’s Food

At Quinto Quarto “if appearances point mostly to excellence—particularly the atmospheric space, previously occupied by AOC Bedford, with its cozy brick and old-Italia artifacts—there are occasional unsettling portents… the food appeared alarmingly slapdash,” writes Andrea Thompson. [NYer]

M & T Restaurant in Flushing specializes in Chinese cuisine from “Shandong, another northern province that had once harbored a German concession,” explains Robert Sietsema. Thanks to a parade of unique dishes, “every visit to M & T proved a revelation.” [VV]

At A Voce Columbus, chef Missy Robbins cooks “meals to relish on the long, cold nights to come, if you don’t mind a room that looks and feels like the high-floor dining venue of a convention hotel and a noise level that can rival Madison Square Garden after a rare Knicks win,” says Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]
Related: First Look at A Voce Columbus, Now Accepting Reservations

“I am surprised myself that I rather like Tanuki Tavern,” begins Gael Greene. The food befits a gastropub and she enjoys the people-watching: “The gossip girls in their strapless backless dresses and spike heels are clustering near the bar, as if seeing each other is their favorite way to spend Saturday night.” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A Closer Look at Tanuki Tavern, Plus Menu

Sifton Dislikes the New Oceana; Another Rave for A Voce Columbus