The Other Critics

Etoile Soars; Ironside is Solid

Photo: Courtesy Etoile

• Michael Bauer had a “splendid meal” worth three and a half stars at Domaine Chandon’s Etoile. New chef Perry Hoffman, 25, created “a beautifully conceived and executed meal, presided over by precise but friendly service that ranks among the best in the Bay Area.” [SF Chronicle]

• Paul Reidinger visited Noeteca, where “the wine-bar aura is modified by glass cases of whole-bean coffee displayed just inside the door, next to a glass case full of pastries.” He enjoyed the French-influenced comfort food, most of which was too filling to finish. [SFBG]

• Matthew Stafford files the first official review of Ironside, which has become the new neighborhood go-to for northern SoMa workers. “Mac ‘n’ cheese is a test case of New American cuisine, and whereas most attempts are oily or gummy or soupy or Cheez Whiz-y, Ironside’s rendition delivered all the flavor without the excess goo, draping (not submerging) the soft noodles in smoked Cheddar and Gruyère. [SF Weekly]

Etoile Soars; Ironside is Solid