The Other Critics

A Rapturous Rave for Pelago; Various Reasons for Mercadito’s Mediocrity

How long would you wait for these pulled-pork taquizos?
How long would you wait for these pulled-pork taquizos? Photo: Mercadito Chicago

• Pat Bruno is so incredibly psyched by Pelago that his review reads like kinetic, alliterative slam poetry: chef Mauro Mafrici is the “maestro behind the menu magic,” the hotel restaurant’s dedicated entrance sidesteps the “lobby lambada.” He falls into raptures over the pasta — “I could never pick a favorite” — and swoons just as hard for the monkfish “osso buco” and transcendent desserts. The man is happy. [Sun-Times]

• Let it never be said that every restaurateur in Chicago knows what Phil Vettel looks like. Mercadito certainly doesn’t, or they wouldn’t have kept the reviewer waiting for his reserved table for over an hour, or 20 minutes for drinks, or god knows how long for for food. Good thing the punchy food is up to par, or that one star might have been a zero. [Tribune]

• David Tamarkin doesn’t seem to have had a problem with waiting at Mercadito, but he’s less than jazzed by the food — while the tacos are good, an inconsistent shrimp ceviche is followed by weak masa-shelled picadas, and the all-tequila cocktail list doesn’t always work. [TOC]

A Rapturous Rave for Pelago; Various Reasons for Mercadito’s Mediocrity