Pie Fights: Slice Takes On Voice; Motorino Lifts Kesté’s Pizza Wallet?

Photo: Rob Patronite

Yesterday, Slice quibbled with the Voice’s pick for best Naples-style pizza, Roberta’s. Main reason Adam Kuban wouldn’t put it over Motorino: “The crust was flavorful but was too chewy and often crunchy rather than perfectly crisp-pliant.” Today, Sietsema defends his pick, arguing that joints like Kesté (which happens to be New York’s favorite) are perverting the Naples pies by adding anathema toppings like truffle spread and butternut-squash cream, plus they’re charging hiked-up prices and offering fancy wines instead of the truly authentic accompaniments: Coke and Italian beer. Bottom line: “In its vibe, genuine goodness, size of the pie, choice of local ingredients (very, very local), [Roberta’s] comes closer than Kesté or La Pizza Fresca or Motorino to capturing the spirit, and part of the taste, of Naples-style pizza.”

Kuban has now responded to Sietsema’s response (Roberta’s serves unconventional toppings, too, he points out), and at this point we’re going to suggest these two get a room. Or a Chowhound thread. But not before asking what they think about this: According to Tasting Table, Motorino is offering its pies a libretto, as “an entire pie folded in thirds and wrapped in a crafty, drip-proof flourish of parchment paper.” Tasting Table acts like the portable pies are something new, but anyone who reads these pages is familiar with Kesté’s portfolio, or “wallet,” pie. We’re not going to bother asking which came first, since our understanding is that Neapolitans have long eaten their pies in a similar fashion, but if any pizza nerds care to find out …

Pie Fights: Slice Takes On Voice; Motorino Lifts Kesté’s