The Other Critics

Chapeau Hits Three Stars; Starbelly is ‘Memorable’

Escargots from Chapeau!
Escargots from Chapeau! Photo: Courtesy Chapeau!

• Michael Bauer checks in with the new location of Chapeau! for a three-star meal and a tip of the hat to owner Philippe Gardelle. “In an area where everything is becoming Californiaized, he steadfastly continues to create rich sauces for his meat and make creamy bisques and loads of flaky puff pastries.” [SF Chronicle]

• Paul Reidinger visits the new location of Sunflower in Potrero hill, where it seems to have melded with Baraka, which space it took over. “now, when you step into what was Baraka, you’ll smell lemongrass — and much as I liked Baraka in its several guises over the past six years, I like lemongrass as much.” [SFBG]

• Meredith Brody takes on the still-new Starbelly in the Castro for “a singularly memorable meal.” Compared with its sibling pizza-and-cocktail-focused Beretta, Starbelly “has a wider menu with only a subspecialty in pizza and a liquor license limited to wine and beer.” [SF Weekly]

Chapeau Hits Three Stars; Starbelly is ‘Memorable’