Chinatown’s Malaysian stalwart, Nyonya, was pushed out of its home of ten years when its lease expired (there are expected to be “changes to building,” an insider tells us) and it has now reopened across the street, as anticipated. As you can see in our slideshow, the restaurant has traded its greasy coat for a glossy sheen akin to that of Penang, its uptown sister restaurant. Capacity is more or less the same, but the tables are now spread across two rooms in an L shape. One wall is made of coconut, and fittingly so (we’ve been sipping from Nyonya’s takeout coconuts since long before the “Sunday Styles” caught on to the “trend”). There are also larger fish tanks, and, as a result, a new Lobster & Dungeon [sic] Crab section of the menu, which allows you to get the crustaceans prepared, at market prices, in your choice of Thai sauce, ginger and scallion, curry with okra, hot and spicy sauce, or house special sauce.
The new menu, which you can see here, is pretty much the same as the old one, with the addition of dishes such as a couple of appetizers (seaweed salad and a fried bun), a couple of noodle dishes (Kweifa Angel Hair Noodles consists of stir-fried vermicelli with shrimp, mushroom, snow pea, bean sprouts, and Chinese sausage; Seafood Crispy Noodles is topped with a brown egg-gravy sauce); a pork dish (deep-fried spare ribs in what’s described as “champion sauce” — no idea, but sounds awesome!); and a bean-curd dish (stir-fried tofu cooked with chicken, snow peas, dried scallops, and mushrooms in brown sauce). The bad news: Certain prices have gone up anywhere from 25 cents to a dollar, but the $6.50 lunch special is still in full effect and there’s still delivery ($10 minimum).
Nyonya, 199 Grand St., nr. Mott St.; 212-334-3669