The Other Critics

Bruno Likes Taxim, Gemini Bistro, Continues to Describe Food as ‘rubble’

Photo: Michael Nagrant

Sun Times food writer Pat Bruno, or as we like to call him: The Fedora, has established himself as a traditionalist, especially when it comes to evaluating Italian food, but that sure didn’t stop him from liking the new fangled Greek eats at Taxim. Bruno digs the Melitzanosalata eggplant spread and the chocolate semolina halva dessert. Along the way he questions whether he’s “losing it” regarding the substitution of green beans in favor of borlotti beans in a lamb confit dish and introduces us to an unfamiliar spelling of the Grecian exclamation opa! (Bruno: “ohpah”). [Sun Times]

Our dear friend Pasquale burns the midnight olive oil this week with a second review and drops two and a half stars on Gemini Bistro. This time we learn Bruno is married and he loves gazpacho so much he’ll order it during the winter. Bruno once again unleashes his new favorite word “rubble” in a review while describing the duck confit nachos. “I would have liked to see a bit more duck confit spread across a rubble of very good, thin and crispy chips…” [Sun Times]

Bruno Likes Taxim, Gemini Bistro, Continues to Describe Food as ‘rubble’