In the magazine this week, Adam Platt fires a dual review of two restaurants that don’t do justice to their pedigree. Former little owl partner Gabe Stulman’s first venture, Joseph Leonard, “isn’t inspired enough to add to this festive atmosphere, but neither is it so horrible that it detracts from the proceedings,” he observes. And of Sfoglia-spinoff Civetta, his praises are similarly thin: “[T]here’s nothing quaint or Sfoglia-like about the room at Civetta, which feels big and shambling and half-put-together.” Only now, with a slimmed-down menu there, “it’s possible to have a decent meal,” he laments. On a happier note, The Vanderbilt is opening in Prospect Heights, complete with on-site smoker and jerky made in house.
Meanwhile, a tip for home chefs: This season, purple carrots are preferred by the Standard Grill chef Dan Silverman, who puts them in a salad with purslane. In other trendlet news, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld present nine egg sandwiches gone gourmet. The pair also hunt down a Turkish import that satisfies both bagel and pretzel needs: the simit at Güllüoglu. And, if you want a local bird for Thanksgiving, you can book soon: The turkey-reservation line at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture opens today.