The Other Critics

Slice Weighs In on ‘Manhattorino’

Photo: Hannah Whitaker

How does “Manhattorino” (now serving beer and wine!) stack up against its Brooklyn predecessor, Motorino? Mozza owner Nancy Silverton loved the dough but thought the oven was a little too hot (“I’d cook it a little lower for a little longer; less quick char, more cooked through with better lasting qualities,” she wrote on Mouthing Off) and now Adam Kuban of Slice, having visited on opening night, chimes in to agree.

The things I noticed were that the lip of the pizza seemed much more puffy than at the Brooklyn location and that the pie overall seemed more charred. And while the lip, or cornicione, was puffy and done well, the interior of the pie was a little droopier than those that the Brooklyn location typically puts out.

Of course, the Motorino crew is still getting used to the oven, so you may want to give the place a moment before checking it out.

Slice Weighs In on ‘Manhattorino’